Crete’s capital Iraklio (ee-rah-klee-oh), also called Heraklion, is a bustling modern city and the fifth largest in Greece. Hectic, densely populated Iraklio lacks the architectural charm of Hania and Rethymno but is nonetheless a dynamic city. It has a lively city centre, chic boutiques, quality restaurants and buzzing cafés. Continuing redevelopment of the waterfront and new roads
Zakynthos (zahk-in-thos), also known as Zante, has a split personality. Its geography is mountainous and rocky in the west, with a fertile plain in the east. While the island’s west remains largely unspoiled, its eastern coastal areas are the victim of the worst manifestations of package tourism. Tourism is also endangering the loggerhead turtle (see
Temple of Poseidon The ancient Greeks knew how to choose a site for a temple. Nowhere is this more evident than at Cape Sounion, 70km south of Athens, where the Temple of Poseidon stands on a craggy spur that plunges 65m down into the sea. Built in 444 BC at the same time as the
The Cyclades fulfil their collective name (kyklos) by encircling the sacred island of Delos, but Mykonos clutches the island jealously to its heart. Delos has no permanent population and is a soothing contrast to the relentless liveliness of modern Mykonos, although in high summer you share it all with fellow visitors. The island is one
Mykonos glitters happily under the sun and carries its glamorous and camp reputation with panache, but expensively so. Beneath the gloss this is a charming and hugely entertaining place where the sometimes frantic mix of good-time holidaymakers, cruise ship crowds, posturing fashionistas and preening celebrities is magically subdued by the cubist charms of Mykonos town, a traditional
Poros (Greek: Πόρος) is a small Greek island-pair in the southern part of the Saronic Gulf, about 58 km (36 mi) (31 nautical miles) south from Piraeus and separated from the Peloponnese by a 200 m (656 ft) wide sea channel, with the town of Galatas on the mainland across the strait. Its surface area
Hydra is one of the Saronic Islands of Greece, located in the Aegean Sea between the Saronic Gulf and the Argolic Gulf. It is separated from the Peloponnese by a narrow strip of water. In ancient times, the island was known as Hydrea (Υδρέα, derived from the Greek word for “water”), a reference to the
The Saronic Islands or Argo-Saronic Islands is an archipelago in Greece, named after the Saronic Gulf in which they are located, just off the Greek mainland. The main inhabited islands of this group are Salamis (where the ancient Greek navy defeated the Persians in the Battle of Salamis), Aegina, Agistri, and Poros. The islands of
The violent recent history of Arkadia’s capital, Tripoli (tree-po-lee), is in stark contrast with its peaceful rural surroundings. In 1821, during the War of Independence, the town was captured by Kolokotronis and its 10,000 Turkish inhabitants massacred. The Turks retook the town three years later, and burnt it to the ground before withdrawing in 1828.
The secret is out about Nafplio, one of Greece’s prettiest and most romantic towns. It occupies a knockout location – on a small port beneath the towering bulk of the Palamidi fortress – and is graced with attractive narrow streets, elegant Venetian houses, neoclassical mansions with flower-bedecked balconies, and interesting museums. Overseas visitors have caught
The modern village of Mycenae (mih-keenes), 12km north of Argos and just east of the main Argos–Corinth road, is geared towards the hordes of package tourists that visit Ancient Mycenae and has little to recommend it other than its proximity to the ancient site, 2km to the north. There is accommodation along its main road.
Argos is the oldest continuously inhabited town in Greece (stretching back an astonishing 6000 years). Today most vestiges of its past glory lie buried beneath the existing modern town. Argos is overshadowed by its nearest neighbour, Nafplio, which makes a much more appealing base to explore the region. Argos itself is mainly used by visitors
With countless overpriced souvenir shops and eateries, the modern village of Olympia (o-lim-bee-ah) panders unashamedly to the hundreds of thousands of tourists who continually pour through here on their way to Ancient Olympia. Despite this, the town is far from kitsch. Beyond the well-kept leafy streets are several even leafier walks, including that along the
The birthplace of Alexander the Great, Pella spans the Thessaloniki–Edessa road, and features spectacular mosaics. Pella became Macedon’s capital under King Archelaos (who ruled from 413 BC to 399 BC), though the old capital of Aigai (Vergina) remained the royal cemetery.Created with naturally coloured, subtly contrasting stones, the mosaics depict mythological scenes. They were created
Vergina (ver-yee-nah), 11km southeast of Veria, is the legendary burial site of the Macedonian kings, and their first capital (ancient Aigai). In 336 BC, at the wedding of his daughter Cleopatra, Philip II was assassinated here. At least the guests were already there. This World Heritage–listed site is also called the Royal Tombs. A walkway
Meteora (meh-teh-o-rah) is an extraordinary place, and one of the most visited in all of Greece. The massive pinnacles of smooth rock are ancient and yet could be the setting for a futuristic science fiction tale. The monasteries atop them add to this strange and beautiful landscape. Each monastery is built around a central courtyard
Strung out along the coast of western Turkey, like jewels upon an impossibly aquamarine sea, the Dodecanese both entrance and attract assers-by – many of whom return year after year to sample some of the most culturally and geographically diverse islands in the Aegean. These 18 islands (including satellites) are an entity unto themselves. Under
It’s no coincidence that the rugged terrain of central Greece was the setting for heroic struggles among the gods and mortals. Journeys to this region provide glimpses of the essential character of the Greek people, along with plenty of outdoor adventures and unforgettable landscapes. The ruins at Delphi, where Alexander the Great sought the advice
Crete is more like a small country than another Greek island. It’s not just Greece’s largest island, but arguably the most fascinating and diverse. Crete’s remarkable history is evident across the island, from the ruins of Minoan palaces, Venetian fortresses, old mosques and Byzantine monasteries to the cave that is the legendary birthplace of Zeus.
The region of Thessaly occupies much of east-central Greece between the Pindos Mountains and the Aegean Sea, bordered by Sterea Ellada to the south and Macedonia to the north. It boasts two of Greece’s most extraordinary natural phenomena: the monastery – capped rock forests of Meteora, and the lush Pelion Peninsula, home to restored pensions
It’s hard not to fall for the Ionian Islands, an archipelago that sweeps down the west coast of mainland Greece and includes Corfu, Paxi, Lefkada, Ithaki, Kefallonia and Zakynthos. Discovering these islands is a tantalising odyssey. Their natural beauty embraces the visitor – the vast olive groves, intriguing mountainscapes and iridescent waters of the Ionian
Time moves more slowly in Epirus, preoccupied as it is with the lofty, brooding Pindos Mountains that make up its inland mass. For thousands of years, these mountains have safeguarded civilisations and confounded invaders. Part of this towering expanse, centred around the stunning 12km-long Vikos Gorge – said to be the world’s deepest – is
Framed by leafy mountains in the north and west, a winding river in the east, and a long Aegean Sea coast in the south, Thrace (thraaa- kih) is one of Greece’s most striking but least-visited areas, a diverse hinterland of marshes and forests concealing rare birds, an ancient dominion coloured by sunflowers, tobacco and wheat
If you’re going to splurge anywhere in Northern Greece, Thessaloniki (thess-ah-lo-nee-kih) is the place to do it. Greece’s second city, and its cultural capital, Thessaloniki (also called Salonica) lets you indulge in fine food, sinful sweets, ultra-chic shopping, an energetic nightlife and more concerts, parties, art shows and events than you can keep track of.
The biggest and most diverse region in Greece, Macedonia (mah-keh-do-nee-ah) also boasts the country’s second city, stylish Thessaloniki. It’s a place with both natural beauty and a deep history, and the two are often intertwined. Mt Olympus, Greece’s highest peak (2918m), is both the fabled refuge of the ancient Greek gods and an excellent hiking destination,
Modern Corinth (ko-rin-thoss), located 6km west of the Corinth Canal, is the administrative capital of Corinthia prefecture. The town was built here after the old town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1858. The new town was wrecked by another, equally violent and damaging, earthquake in 1928 and badly damaged again in 1981. The rather
The Peloponnese (pel-o-pon-ih-sos) is the stuff that legends are made of. Numerous myths were born and borne out here – it is where many a Greek god or hero strutted their stuff (and aired their bodies). Today this region is far from a fable. It boasts historical sites, with classical temples, Mycenaean palaces, Byzantine cities,
Piraeus is the main port of Greece and one of the Mediterranean’s major ports. The city is the hub of the Aegean ferry network, centre of Greece’s maritime export-import and transit trade, and base for its large merchant navy. While Piraeus was a separate city, nowadays it virtually melds imperceptibly into the expanded sprawl of
In a canyon, in 340 BC, an Argos architect Polykleitos the Younger, built, according to Pausanias, the theatre of Epidaurus. Among all the ancient theatres, Epidaurus theatre is the most beautiful and best preserved. Destined for the fun of the patients of Asklipieio, it had a capacity of 13.000 spectators. It was divided into two
Santorini is an island in the southern Aegean Sea, about 200 km (120 mi) southeast of Greece’s mainland. It is the largest island of a small, circular archipelago which bears the same name and is the remnant of a volcanic caldera. It forms the southernmost member of the Cyclades group of islands, with an area